Time For Georgia Wine
-"It is just like the old Paul Mason Winery TV commercials used to declare,  no wine before it's time," says Sharon Paul, of Three Sisters Vineyards . "Just like any fine wine, Georgia's wine industry is going to need time to gain the support of consumers.  I think folks will be very pleasantly surprised at what they'll taste."
The Georgia mountains have always been infamous for the production of moonshine. What they call "copper & corn" has recently seen a revival of an elder family tradition, grape growing and wine making. While the region's history of grape growing is connected to Cherokee Indians, General James Oglethorpe and sweet muscadine wines, today's refreshed wine industry is turning the heads of tourists and wine enthusiasts alike.
"The establishment of the Georgia Wine Highway signage last year was the first step in raising the bar of tourism awareness for our industry," says Eric Seifarth, President of Crane Creek Vineyards. "Wine County has arrived and it's epicenter is located an little over an hour north of Atlanta." Crane Creek marks the top of the recently established "Georgia Wine Highway" in Young Harris...a twisting road of vineyards and wineries that continues southeast to Tiger and south to Helen, Dahlonega, and Braselton. Then it travels east to Social Circle and Danielsville and west to Cartersville and Chickamauga in the northwest.
Georgia's elder vineyards and wineries are Chateau Élan in Braselton, Habersham Winery in Helen and Georgia Wines in Ringgold.  "This is a very exciting time for wine-lovers in Georgia," says Dahlonega's Three Sisters Vineyards co-founder Doug Paul. "Who would have ever thought there would be over fifteen different family businesses across  North Georgia counties  involved in the production of wine grapes and wine?" An impressive beginning for Georgia's budding wine industry.

University of Georgia Extension Agent Greg Sheppard now finds himself immersed in wine grapes. "In the beginning, I believe growers were unsure of the support they could count on from the Extension service, " stated Sheppard in a recent interview. "Limited resources within the state left agents scrambling for information to address grower inquiries. Since that time a very cooperative relationship has developed between growers and the Extension Service."  Sheppard believes that new support within the state in plant pathology and other disciplines has benefited the growers.  He says that in addition to our state's experts, a network of specialists with expertise in viticulture has been developed on a regional and national level.  "It's not unusual now for an agent to contact specialists in North Carolina, Virginia or even California to track down needed information." As evidence of growing interest Greg Sheppard says he averages 3-4 calls per month from people who are seriously interested in commercial grape production or starting a winery.



HISTORY

Georgia's formal wine production dates back to colonial beginnings when founder, James Edward Oglethorpe tried to introduce European viticulture as a part of his economic plan. It was his fancy to see the new Georgia Colony excel in two products, fine silk and fine wine. Georgia had been observed as a prosperous region for mulberry trees. Unfortunately, Oglethorpe's silkworms disliked the native variety and Georgia's climate. Likewise, European wine grapes (vitis vinifera) were unable to be successfully cultivated due to mysterious New World diseases and indigenous insects. European grapes and mulberry trees were abandoned for rice and indigo. Eventually the cotton plant replaced those commodities. Over the decades, native muscadines were cultivated throughout Georgia for table grapes and sweet wine production.

Gay Dellinger and Tom Slick are the two pioneers of modern grape growing and wine making in Georgia. Dellinger, occasionally called the "First Lady of Georgia Winegrapes," is the founder of Splitrail Vineyard near Cartersville. Established on Saint Patrick's Day of 1979, Splitrail Vineyard initially planted 3 acres of vinifera and French-American hybrid grapes. "Nobody knew what would grow in Georgia, and many people told us that it couldn't be done," says Dellinger. "We started out by planting half vinifera and half French-American hybrids. Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Seyval and Vidal Blanc where some of the first white wine grapes and we planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Chambourcin for the reds." Three years later, Splitrail added 5 more acres of wine grapes and the rest is history.
Gay Dellinger introduced  Georgia's first European style wine, "Etowah Ridges" from her 1981 crop, produced at Thousand Oaks Winery in Starkville, Mississippi. "We actually were able to promote it as the first Georgian commercial vinifera produced into wine since prohibition and even talked the Cartersville Kroger into selling it!"


ESTABLISHMENT

If Dellinger is the First Lady, Tom Slick may well be her male counterpart. Says Dellinger, "Tom has done more for the Georgia Wine industry than most people realize." Slick began his interest in grape growing and wine making in the 1970's. Purchasing farmland near Clarkesville, he planted in 1980. Habersham Vineyards was born. "The first wines that were made from our grapes were actually processed in Starkville, Mississippi." Gay Dellinger joined forces with Tom Slick's Habersham to continue to produce "Etowah Ridges." Habersham produced two vintages in Mississippi until beginning production in Georgia in 1983. Slick is optimistic about Georgia's newest wineries and vineyards. "With the development of new vineyards in North Georgia that are devoted to premium quality grapes, I foresee a new age of appreciation for Georgia produced wine of the highest quality." Habersham's production has gone from a few hundred cases to nearly 15,000. Recently, Slick built a beautiful winery in Nachoochee Village just outside Helen. The property features a winery, tasting room and gift shop that compliments the shopping and attractions connected with historic Nora Mill and the Martin House. Notable Atlanta Chef and now Cleveland resident, Gene Marra opened a new venture with Habersham called the Nachoochee Grill. Habersham's General Manager Steve Gibson has seen Georgia's tremendous growth over his career with the company. "I have seen some immense growth and improvement in Georgia's wine product. Winemaker Andrew Beaty has elevated Habersham Wines with his talent and wine making skills. He is committed to a quality product."

Winemaker and Owner Patty Prouty is the second generation in her family to operate a Georgia vineyard and winery...simply named Georgia Wines. Founded in 1982 by her father Dr. Maurice Rawlings, the 52 acre farm in the foothills of Lookout Mountain is the home to Southern traditional and European style wines that are produced by Ms. Prouty.  "Our wines are different from the other mostly dry wine producing wineries around the state."  Prouty says Georgia Wines have been focusing on making the best quality traditional "southern sweet"wines since inception. A few dry wines are made under the label. The winery successfully produces up to 10,000 a year. Growing mostly muscadines, Prouty says the winery  purchases additional grapes from commercial vineyards.  Last year at the Indy International Wine Competition,  Georgia Wines was awarded a prestigious CONCORDANCE GOLD MEDAL for their 2001 Chattanooga Blush, a surprising delightful blend of  three flavorful grape varieties. The "Concordance Gold" is given only to a wine that receives the highest score from each and every judge.
While some are quick to discount sweet wines, Three Sisters' Sharon Paul echoes  respect for Prouty's southern style wines.  "There is a place for these wines. They are a part of our heritage and I hate to burst the wine snobbery bubble, but we consistently see that half of the wine tourists visiting our tasting rooms prefer a sweet wine." Almost all of Georgia's 15 wineries produce a sweet and dry wine for sale.

Another stop on the Georgia Wine Highway  is John Fuchs' Fox Vineyards & Winery in Social Circle. Fuchs and his son Kenneth have run the business since the mid 80's.  This family operation is one mile south of  I-20 at Exit 98. Visitors can not only sample Fox Vineyards' wines, but also take a personally guided tour of the winemaking facilities and see an exhibit of various machines used in the winemaking process. The Fuchs family pride themselves in showing visitors everything from harvest to bottling.

Over in Braselton, Chateau Élan is the famous winery resort with restaurants, golf courses, conference facilities, spa, horses-you name it.. Founded by Dr. Donald and Nancy Panoz, the first wines were released in 1985. The Panoz tasted muscadine wine, made from indigenous muscadine grapes on an early business trip in Georgia and later decided to build a winery and resort. The first winemaker, Ed Frederick came from America's west coast. The second was French winemaker Jean Courtois. American born Dan Baldwin joined Chateau Élan as winemaker a few years ago. Currently, Chateau Élan  is recognized as the largest vineyard and winery in Georgia, though with new wineries opening soon in the Georgia mountains that position could soon change.



THE PROMISED LAND
Atlanta attorney Craig Kritzer and his wife Cydney have been busy with the final touches of Lumpkin county's newest (and biggest) winery, Frogtown Cellars. The Kritzers purchased land next to Three Sisters Vineyards in 1997 and planted the vineyard in 1999. Since first harvest, Frogtown Cellars has been producing excellent fruit for several Georgia and out-of-state wineries. The new state of the art, total gravity flow winery opened in August of 2003 and will eventually produce upwards of 25,000 cases a year. The stately and impressive mortise and tenon timber frame facility features a spectacular view of the estate's four acre lake and 26 acres of vineyards, with Yonah Mountain and the North Georgia mountains as a back drop.

"We were attracted to this exciting region because of the adventure of growing a brand new industry." Kritzer says he was inspired to begin a vineyard in North Georgia after seeing the possibilities of growing premium wine grapes. "Why travel 2,400 miles by plane to the Napa Valley when you could drive to wine country from Atlanta?" Kritzer added "We are a one-and-a-half hour drive from 3.5 million people. The demographics look good." Frogtown will also be another venue for weddings, parties and events of up to 200 people.

The Kritzer's daughter Jordan recently finished her education at UC Davis Enology School where she studied wine making and viticulture. Afterwards, she completed several winemaking apprenticeships at Napa Valley's Markham Winery and Araujo and recently returned from the Antinori Winery of Tuscany, Italy. Jordan Kritzer will begin her first winemaking duties at Frogtown Cellars during the 2003 harvest.

"I really want to make wines that express the terroir of our family's vineyards,"  says the 26 year old winemaker. "And at the same time, utilize the modern skills I've learned to make the best possible Georgia wines. I have kept my eyes open to what has been going on with Mom and Dad's plans since 1997. After traveling and studying different wine regions, I've decided to try my hand in Georgia," adds the enthusiast vintner.
Next door to Frogtown is another family affair. In fact, Three Sisters Vineyards  bills itself as "Dahlonega's First Family Vineyard & Winery."  It is located in Lumpkin County, just east of the historic gold mining town of Dahlonega. Established in 1996 by Sharon and Doug Paul, Three Sisters is a family affair. Sharon's brother Ken VanDusen is the Vineyard Manager and several other family members have been involved in the development of the 184 acre country vineyard estate.  Even the Paul's 11 year old daughter, Mittie, is usually on hand to show visitors the family of ducks that live on the 2.5 acre pond below the stacked rock patio or to introduce visitors to the official vineyard cat, Cosmo.

Three Sisters' tasting room and art gallery is quite unique with it's large stained glass window and  impressive cherry wood  and granite top tasting bar designed and built by the family . The room features colorful displays of southern folk art by Howard Finster, Lanier Meaders, and local cult favorite "Cornbread."   "We really try to de-mystify the wine tasting process with some down to earth education and winery tours,  while at the same time entertaining visitors with a little folk art history," says co-founder Sharon Paul. 

Three Sisters Vineyards was established as a destination for wine enthusiasts and tourists visiting the North Georgia mountains.  Wine-lovers can always enjoy a daily complimentary tasting or a weekend "Vintner's Tasting" and "Georgia Wine Country Tasting." Weddings and private events are a part of the offerings of the property. Festivals and events each month bring wine lovers a step closer to realizing the potential of the northeast Georgia mountains as a premiere wine growing region.  Last year, Three Sister's 2000 Merlot was recognized as the highest rated Merlot in Georgia by national publication Wine Spectator.  Doug Paul says he is very proud of the Georgia region. "We see this as Agri-tourism at it's finest!"


The second Lumpkin winery to open just five miles North of Dahlonega is Linda and Karl Boegner's Wolf Mountain Vineyards.  Boegner's oldest son Brandon is vineyard manager. Visitors can enjoy the pastoral hillside vineyards, field stone-encased winery, wine antiques, beautiful  tasting room and  hospitality facility which overlooks more Appalachian mountain splendor.  Private events and parties are available for groups up to 200. The winery, which released it's first wines in 2001,  have already enjoyed much attention from winelovers and visitors.  Regular weekend tastings and tours are available to the public from a tastefully decorated tasting room.  Boegner and his family are masters of fine dining with regular "themed wine brunches and events" offered to the public on Sunday afternoons  from the winery and dining room. Winemaking is conducted by Mr. Boegner, who began his career as a Chef, worked for Walt Disney in Orlando and was at one time the Executive Director of Chateau Élan in the 1980s.

TOP OF THE HIGHWAY

The newest winery to hit the scene is Dr. Deanne and  Eric Seifarth's Crane Creek Vineyards. As the region's northernmost winery, Crane Creek Vineyards currently anchors the top of the Georgia Wine Highway.  Nestled on a 30 acre property in beautiful Young Harris, the vineyard was established in 1995 and  features the historic 1887 Bryson Homestead that was converted in to a Bed & Breakfast. The property's tasting room opened in 2000 and features Crane Creek and Chestatee wines produced by Three Sisters.  The new winery opened in July of 2003 and will release several new wines in the spring of 2004.

Seifarth and his veterinarian wife opened Crane Creek Vineyards after serving in the U.S. Army in Italy.  Both husband and wife speak Italian and Crane Creek reflects their love of Italian culture, with Italian themed dinners and even specialty food items like pastas and olive oils available for sale in their tasting room.  "Deanne and I simply fell in love with the vineyards of Italy and after retiring from the service, we started looking for land for a vineyard." Crane Creek is an exciting new destination for wine-lovers.


Another new stop along the Georgia Wine Highway is Dr. Sonny Hardman's Persimmon Creek Vineyards.  Dr. Hardman, who also owns  Hardman Pathology and Dermatopathology in Athens explains,  "I've always been fascinated by the growth and development of grape vines and the grapes they produce. An extension of this is the chemistry and biochemistry that goes into wine making." Hardman purchased six acres in the North Georgia mountains with the dream of designing and planting a vineyard and growing grapes to make into wine.

In addition to planting some 6,500 vines, Dr. Hardman and his wife, Mary Ann, also planned complementary plantings for the vineyard, featuring practical soil conservation and rural beautification. Dr. Hardman describes, "I want a well-landscaped vineyard that flows with the land; one that includes mountain laurel, rhododendrons, camellias, native azaleas and butterfly plants."  The 55 acre  Persimmon Creek Vineyards features 14 acres of Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Seyval Blanc. The family winery opened in September of 2003.

Those who read the AJC  may be familiar with Senior Editor Martha Ezzard's commentaries on her Tiger, Georgia vineyard.  Occasionally, she will wax poetic of the trials and tribulations of  fending off wild bears in the vineyard.  Martha and her  husband Dr. John Ezzard have partnered with Atlanta attorney Bill Stack and his wife Leckie to create a very special property along the Georgia Wine Highway.

Nestled on a hillside high up in Rabun County, on the rocky, sunny slopes of the North Georgia mountains is Tiger Mountain Vineyards & Winery.  Opened in 1998, it is located at the site of John Ezzard's family dairy farm, off old 441 in Tiger, Georgia.  The actual winery is located in the dairy's former creamery. The vineyard is small. The vines are individually tended and the grapes handpicked for quality. Tiger Mountain Vineyards feature 15 acres of European and American varietals, which include Cabernet Franc, Touriga Nacional, and Norton , an American wine grape also know as Cynthiana. In the past year, Tiger Mountain won a silver medal and two bronze medals in the East Coast wine competition sponsored by the trade publication, Vineyard and Winery Magazine. Competing with 1,400 different wines, some from other countries, Tiger Mountain's 2001 Cabernet Franc won a silver medal; 2000 Norton and 2000 Touriga Nacional won bronzes. Tiger prides itself on creating fun events and tastings for it's many followers. "Awaking of the Vines" is held every spring at the vineyards. "Harvest Party" is held every fall.

In recent years, both Habersham and Chateau Élan have purchased additional grapes from a new commercial vineyard planted in the Town Creek section of White County.  40 acre Blackstock Vineyards has established a name for itself. Planted in 1997, the property is managed by former winemaker turned viticulturalist, David Harris.   Mr. Harris has been involved in the Georgia wine industry for over 15 years and believes "North Georgia can rival other eastern wine regions such as Virginia and Texas."  Harris' wine  making credits include the old Chestnut Mountain Winery of Horchton and Habersham Winery. Blackstock Vineyards bills itself as the “Southeast’s largest independent winegrower.”

Other small family vineyards seem to be popping up almost daily.  Becky and Greg Olson have established a 5 acre planting of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir near Cleveland, Georgia  “We have been in the horse breeding business for over 20 years and decided one day to diversify into something new,” says Olson. “It was Becky’s idea to plant winegrapes and we have really enjoyed the process.”  The Olsons are proud to point out that they are self taught grapegrowers and received guidance from White County UGA Extension Agent Mike Harris. Their 2005 harvest will be the couple’s first and they plan to  sell grapes to local wineries and home winemaking enthusiasts. 

LAST SIP
Greg Sheppard proudly sees the future for the North Georgia wine industry as bright. "Our growers have proven that they can produce superior quality fruit and excellent wines." He is quick to point out that North Georgia is a well established tourist destination that is only a hour's drive from metropolitan Atlanta.  "The combination of an excellent product and a huge potential market certainly looks promising for our growers."

So...has North Georgia become a little Napa Valley? Tom Slick bursts into laughter. "Maybe. I know that we are uniquely destined for something special with our connection to food, wine, and tourist activities." Gay Dellinger adds that the state's wine industry has progressed nicely over the last 20 years. "Actually, it has turned out like I thought it would and hoped it would." Eric Seifarth summed up the new wave of agri-business . " It seems to be finally happening. "I believe that all of the growers and winemakers in Georgia look  forward to the near future, when thousands of Georgians will experience the pleasure and pride of traveling up and down the Georgia Wine Highway to embrace a true wine country of their own."

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